Hiking day 4 to Painswick

Our shortest hiking day on the Cotswold Way! Yay!  

Today was a walk in the woods,  followed by a walk on a golf course and an extra excursion to take a stroll in a garden. 

We had a great breakfast… Ed had the traditional English breakfast. 

We wandered through the beautiful beech tree woods most of the day. Sometimes the trail was single track and other times it appeared to be forest roads for lumber felling. 

We were in awe of the incredible steepness of Coopers Hill. This hill is famous for the annual Cheese Rolling competition they have each May. 

Checkout this short video to see the insanity that has been happening over 200 years in this hill. We talked to several locals while walking in that area about this event.  They shared that there are mens, women’s, and children’s categories. In the childrens race - it is a bit safer.. they run up the hill. Either way first one to the bottom or first one to the top (for kids) wins the cheese and bragging rights. 

https://youtube.com/shorts/-zXZzlv_sdU?is=-Yw_i5wMc1fa9D11

The Painswick Golf Club is in a unique location in these hills  and it just so happens cattle grazing within the course! So instead of the goose poop we deal with back home, there is bullshit that happens here!  We saw the big black bull as we walked along the rough of the fairway on the walkers path. 

Crazy thing… today we went through only 1 gate. We saw some gates were removed because they weren’t necessary. The cattle have a collar to keep them in the correct places! 

Less than a mile from our overnight destination Is thePainswick Rococo Gardens. The 1740s this garden was designed to delight guests at the Painswick House. The rococo style of the time can be seen in the architecture.

Eventually, the garden was abandoned and eventually returned to woodland, but a restoration of the garden started  in earnest in 1984. Strolling It’s impressive  and mature grounds made for an interesting and relaxing afternoon. 

After the gardens, we found our way to the village of  Painswick. Saint Mary’s Church is directly across from our overnight stay at Saint Michael’s Bistro B&B!   Saint Peter’s chapel was first built in 1377 then and throughout the following 400 years additions were made. St. Peter’s chapel still exists with Saint Mary’s Church. 

The interior of the church is filled with beautiful details. In addition to the old craftsmanship, they also have 300 different hand embroidered kneelers pads. 

The churchyard is surrounded by 99 very old, very massive. wonderfully sculpted yew trees (folklore says the  devil will not allow the 100th tree to survive).  Two yew trees that form arches are called the Marriage Yews. Tim and I are celebrating our 25th wedding anniversary on this trip. 

The arts and craft movement was influential in Painswick in the early 20th century and the tradition continues. Each bedroom at our B&B has its own personality and artistic style. Tim and I are in the art deco room. (Sorry no photo)

Ed and Michelle have the Indian Room. 

A local highly suggested The Oak pub for our evening meal. It is a genuinely historic pub dating back to the 16th century! We arrived early to get a table (it was very crowded  when we departed) and enjoyed our beer, dinner and then dessert along with a fun game of cards mixed in. (Ed was the winner). 

Gate count -  1

Miles hiked - 9

Elevation gained - 1040’

Hiking day 3 to Birdlip

I was concerned about today’s hike because it was going to be the longest day of the hike, we were still recovering from yesterday’s long day and last night’s sleep wasn’t good. I’m happy to say it was a great day to hike, fabulous temperature, nice overcast and bonus stops. (although I am still very happy to have it behind me.)

After delicious breakfast we got on the trail at 8:15… with an immediate uphill warm-up under a beautiful blanket of clouds. 

The gorgeous hillside was not only shared by sheep and hikers, but also golfers. 

We happen upon these two retired gentlemen, that are still practicing the art of dry stack, limestone walls. It was great chatting with them and Ed even practiced his knowledge to place a limestone rock in the wall and etch his initials in it!

Today we had many fewer gates, but here are a couple of them. Actually, these are stiles.

Upon recommendations from other hikers, we visited Dunkertons, an organic cider place. We shared a flight plus one extra, (a fantastic rhubarb cider) and a ploughmans platter (specialized charcuterie)

Back on trail… “onward and pub-ward”. 

We happen upon this cute roadside mini hut on a very quiet road. It was obviously catering to the Cotswald Way hikers. It had a wonderful array of baked goods. Surprisingly, it also had a card reader so we could just tap our card and pay for our delicious brownies.

Another hill climb rewarded with beautiful views.

About 3 miles from our destination, there is  some major highway work that diverted the Cotswald Way walkers significantly out of the way.  Other hikers that we met along the way shared that they took a Uber to get around all that, and the ones that hiked it said they wish they hadn’t. With that in mind, we called an Uber and ended our hike… finishing with 13 miles instead of the scheduled 16. 

I was very ready for a great night sleep at 8pm after our delicious dinner at tonight’s accommodation the Royal George in Birdlip. 

Gate count: 22

Miles hiked: 13 

Elevation gained: 1820’

Hiking day 2 to Cleeve Hill

Last night’s overnight stay will be remembered fondly for the stories we can tell, but not for the comfort and convenience.  😊

The acorn and circular sign on each post is seen all along the Cotswald Way. 

We had the  warning that we would be in the bowl paddock,  but he must’ve been hiding from us. 

It’s common to see these Cotswald limestone walls, but it’s still so spectacular. 

Lots of gates today. This one is a kissing gate! And there’s the  proof!

Grounding opportunity!  Lots of huge beech trees here. 

Lion Inn in Winchcombe was a great pub that had a great beer garden. Our lunch was delivered and the waitress took photos, thinking it was worthy of their Instagram!

Belas Knap Long Barrow is a Neolithic chambered burial ground on Cleeve Hill.  It dates roughly 3800 BC and is one of the best known prehistoric monuments on the Cotswald Way!

Just before we arrived at our overnight destination we found ourselves at an intersection of Cleeve Hill  Golf Club, Cleeve Hills Commons, a large protected, open access countryside and  the Cotswold Way. Here we enjoyed an ice cream to celebrate the end of a long day. 

Gates - 58 !! 

Miles hiked  14.5 miles

Elevation gained- 1850’